The closest beach to the Vieux Port in Marseille is Catalans. A proper city beach, certainly Mediterranean waters, beach volley ball nets and a view of the ships going by in the distance against a backdrop of Marseille mountains. The crowd is also mixed, from young cool people who must live close by judging by all the eclectic creative businesses opening in the area, families, to retired ladies enjoying their days of leisure. The petit tourist train of Marseille passes by regularly.

The restaurant Les Akolytes is quite iconic at this location, being directly over the road from the beach with a long celebratory shared table out the front it’s the obvious place to sit and enjoy some cool food and a glass of Rosé. Inside there’s space for around 20 at small tables, the kitchen is in the back and a small bar with a window facing the street for outdoor service takes up the northern corner. The view is equally fantastic from the inside framed by the large windows.

This was not my first visit and won’t be my last based on the latest menu offering. Having arrived close the end of the lunch service I was offered my seat at the big table by friendly waiters who could both understand my French and switch to English when necessary. sigh.

They have a set menu offering of 3 plats for 35 or 2 for 24 and a list of around 12 small plates to pick from as well as small starters and desserts. Having been fairly recently updated I had to try as much as possible. A small plate of the oysters to start, three good size oysters arrive in a citrusy ‘éschalotes’ oil dressing simultaneously meshing perfectly with the ocean oyster flavour and with a piece of lime on the side, I regretted not ordering three plates of these. The plates come as they are ready. The petit baguette of crab salad arrived next, despite the mayo style dressing on the top it still felt in need of more salt, and the bread may have been better at the start of the lunch service, such is the nature of brioche style bread that dries in the moment it meets the air.

The carpaccio de boeuf was sliced slightly thicker than I’m used to. The addition of pomegranate and capers provided that umami in the mouth flavour we all go wild for. The greens on top were a nice if not superfluous addition, but it’s only now looking at the photos afterwards that I really notice the flower and it gives me a smile. Such a small thing and yet so thoughtful really accentuates the joy in these very intricate dishes. That’s what Les Akolytes is. It’s not too perfect, but it’s delicious and make you smile.

Even though they didn’t know I was writing a review, they saved the very best for last. A spaghetti ‘carbonara’ with squid and a smattering of cheese. The spaghetti is obviously home made, but lighter than regular squid ink spaghetti, the squid itself, well I had to double check the menu, as it was so tender and soft it could have been a gently braised vegetable. The egg dissolves into the pasta sauce when mixed and it was – served in typical small copper pots – heaven by mouth.

Three plates at Les Akolytes is a good amount of food if you are hungry for lunch. They are neither ‘small’ nor ‘big’, so being hungry and enjoying the service, the weather and the food I went for a dessert too. The Kafé Gourmand kills two birds with one stone, combining coffee and dessert. The Gourmand section of the dessert was very generous. An ice cream filled profiterole, a full sized traditional ricotta filled chocolate and pistachio canoli and a berry topped panna cotta. All accompanied by a coffee and my extra milk.

The service at Les Akolytes was prompt and friendly. It’s never in the French style to rush anyone during a meal, or afterwards, and I was not the first to leave, but I would love to see this place open all afternoon for drinks and snacks.