The esteemed La Villa is an institution in the “Carre d’Or” of Marseille South. In a narrow street almost hidden, off the Avenue du Prado, La Villa sits on a tidy corner made of vines and lush green trees, and festoon lights like a cosy and exclusive nest. 

The atmosphere within doesn’t disappoint on this front. The front desk appears intimidating at first glance but the host is polite and efficient, although being first to arrive a “we’re full” might have been difficult to deliver.   The venue is divided between indoors and outdoors but the ceiling provided by the greenery and heaters makes the difference between them negligible in the winter. 

Thick white linens cover the tables and the specials are listed on a gilt framed board. The menu is quite broad and traditional, with a good range of pizza’s, entrées and mains grouped by seafood, meat and pasta’s.  There was nothing outlandish but nor was there the typical and sometimes cliché menu items either. Our waiter is also polite and efficient although the water was slow to arrive. We ordered two starters and a steak main to share.   

The octopus entrée was a delight. A timbale of extremely tender meat dressed with some greenery, and decorated with poached (?) potatoes and fresh tomato. It was deceivingly substantial in size.  The fish soup (with no actual fish) with roux and toasts was flavourful and rich and a nod to Marseille’s place as the home of bouillabaisse.  We languished over both meals, they were delicious.  A glass of xxxx accompanied. Having neglected to consult the wine list my efficient and helpful waiter offered the choice between two wines (for someone who often suffers from decision fatigue, this is exactly what I wanted), and I chose the Minuty, which was just the right mix of dry and Fruity. 

The steak arrived already sliced and divided between two plates with small dish of sauce and a piece of bone with the marrow on each.  Expertly cooked at the textbook definition of ‘rare’ – not too bloody, but with the delicious sear on the outside.  Good chips accompanied also. 

Being first to arrive and sitting at a table that provided a view of not only the entry but the entire restaurant was a brilliant opportunity to observe the arrivals at La Villa and see Marseille society ‘in action’.   This venue has a dress code of ‘well dressed’ with no baseball hats allowed. The bags are Hermes, Jerome Dreyfuss and more, but discreetly blended with jeans and Golden goose sneakers.  Simple sweaters abound, but you know they are cashmere. The Saturday lunch crowd is family and pet friendly, along with locals popping in for a quick meal while reading La Provence.  The service is typically French. This means to me, the people know what they are doing and how to do it, they don’t try to be your best friend but they are not rude at all, it’s courteous and respectful. There’s no bullsh*t. And so in that front it’s very relaxing to be in safe hands, without being ‘sloppy’.

In for a penny in for a pound as they say so a shared main left room for dessert.  With all the dessert choices looking equally good I went for a trifecta and ordered the Café Gourmand my companion had the ice cream. Three ‘boules’ of their choice being lemon vanilla and ‘pêche de vigne’’.  My plate of three little delights did not fail to live up to expectations, a chocolate millefeuille, a croustillant chocolate noisettes, and a mochi a la Francaise was a good mix of sweet and less sweet to accompany my coffee. The Ice creams were curious, as the pêche tasted more like ‘fraise’.. after asking the question we were told the pêche was actually a ‘melange’ of pêche and fraise. …

That aside the meal was delicious at La Villa. Was it new exciting and innovative? No. Was it trying to be? No.  La Villa is consistent in its execution across the atmosphere and menu, delivering traditionally modern quality food and with atmosphere. Did I find a dish that made me want to rush back? Not yet, but it’s likely there along with a very French atmosphere which is only scattered in Marseille South which, just like the pêche ice cream, is also a ‘melange’.